Cruisers in Curacao

Curacao was a place where we were left underwhelmed. It seems to be a cruising spot where retirees go to grow barnacles. If in a hurry to head West, you wouldn't be missing out if you passed the island by and continued on to Colombia.

We spent a week on the island and that was more than enough time to stock up on European provisions and replenish our water tanks (no good enough squalls for a while now). Sailing from Bonaire to Curacao, we stopped off at Klein Curacao, a mere 15 mile sail away from Spanish Waters.

Klein Curacao is a small white sandy beach island home to the day tourists. It has little on it apart from a derelict lighthouse and a couple of wrecks but it made a welcome stop for us to drop anchor and swim ashore. Once the hoards of day tourists from the main island disappear at 5pm, you can truly appreciate the small island. and gorgeous leeward beaches. We spent a few nights on the beach with cocktails watching the sun go down and Dylan had a great time salvaging teak from an old wreck with Iain. I'd aim to spend a couple of days here and by that time you would have been able to fit in a snorkel and a bit of exploration. Not for one minute could we pretend we were on a deserted island though, as the Dutch coastguard were constantly circling in their helicopters.

Wreck on Klein Curacao

The lighthouse

Orion at anchor

Willemstad

Doesn't look like immigration surely?

On the main island of Curacao, we chose to anchor in Spanish Waters, its a fantastically protected crowded bay with plenty of hidey holes to choose from if you fancy a change of scenery. We were anchored in area A nearest to the Fisherman's Wharf where a decent dinghy dock is just a 2 min walk to a local bus stop and a free shuttle bus to a supermarket. The internet here is run by a boat called Isis and for $10 /week you can get a scratchy internet connection. Good enough to download emails during off peak times but thats about it although apparently they are switching to a new provider soon for a better service.

I must mention the clearing in process as a good few calories are lost whilst you traipse about Willemstad to the various offices of bureaucracy. Possibly the most drawn out, spaced out procedure we have completed so far! As usual, customs is the first port of call and everyone must be present whilst you fill in 3 forms, all with the same information. Once stamped you then need to commence a 20 min walk across the floating bridge to the ferry terminal. Here you will need to show your passport to a guy in a hut who proceeds to write you a notice, allowing you to venture nearer the dock in search of the immigration office.



Perhaps another 10 mins walk along the inlet, you will arrive at a white building with an inconspicuous 'immigration' sign. The best directions would be, once through the ferry terminal hut, turn left when you hit the river and keep going until you get directly underneath the big blue bridge.


Aaaah immigration has fantastic air conditioning after your trek across town and even a water fountain to guzzle from.  Here you fill in 3 more pieces of paper, all with the same information on but just in a different format. The final part of the process is to visit Harbour Authority which can be found upstairs from immigration. They shut for an hour and a half lunch break from 12 to 1:30 and woe behold anyone that arrives with 5 mins to go, they will not stay open for you. Just one form to fill in here and at the bottom they ask you for a drawing of your boat… I kid you not. Here are Orion's and Dolphin of Leith's attempts at drawing our respective boats:

As you can see, Iain put a great deal of effort into his and even thought it necessary to include his signature. 

My opinion sounds quite scathing so far but there was one part of Curacao that I loved - the Venezuelan floating fruit and veg market. These guys pile their boats to the brim with all sorts of fresh goodies and then sail over to Curacao and raft up in Willemstad. Walking the street you can visit stall after stall piled high with apples, oranges, avocados, melons, bananas, onions, potatoes…I could go on. Not only is there fantastic variety, it is also cheap. We haven't come across cheap good quality produce like this since Grenada. In keeping with our quest to try anything once, we purchased queso blanco. OK that is just Spanish for white cheese…but this cheese has never been refrigerated and just lies in the heat sweating away in cling film. Turns out it is great stuff! Lasts forever, has a sharp mature tang to it and is best used when cooking it first to melt else it has the consistency of rubber. I'd probably liken it to halloumi. Shall definitely be looking out for more of that stuff when in Colombia. PS: its made from goats milk but doesn't taste like goat.

I turned 26 in Curacao and Dylan threw a celebration on our boat. Dolphin and Waka Irie joined us and we munched our way through braai food complete with our Caribbean fav of rice and peas, Vicki even baked me the mother of all chocolate cakes. I have never tasted anything so good, yes even better than M&S AND it was still fresh 5 days later! No birthday of mine would be complete without a game of Articulate so out came the cards and I introduced the gang to the best description game ever. Dylan had to take it a step too far though and introduced us all to the game Poker Face too, wow I felt rough the next day.

As the middle of November neared, our twitchy feet started up again so we picked up the hook and continued heading West, next stop - Los Monjes.