A favourite topic of all cruisers considering Colombia is the clearance process and fees. We wanted to clear in to Santa Marta, do a bit of sight seeing and then continue on to Cartagena. We soon found out this is only do-able if you clear into the country twice = twice the fees, twice the bureaucracy…not going to happen. Instead we paid Dino (recommended from Noonsite) at the marina US$100 for him to clear us in to Santa Marta. He is an agent and you have to use one in this country, no getting around it. Go into the marina office and ask them to call him or even email him in advance (we weren't that organised). The $100 includes everything; clearance papers, cruising permit, exit zarpe and intermediate permit to visit other places in Colombia after Santa Marta en route to Panama. You cannot however, enter Cartagena in your vessel (if you have already cleared into Santa Marta) without declaring yourselves (again) and paying another $100…although we have heard of boats going in for one night, flying the Q flag and clearing off early the next day.
Another way of keeping costs down is to ensure you only stay in the country for no more than 15 days, if you wish to stay longer, you have to pay a further $105 to import your boat. Less than 15 days stay rewards you with a temporary importation of your boat for free. Dino takes all the necessary paperwork from you, does his thing and hands it back to you up to 5 days later, although we got ours back the next day…must be a quiet time for Dino at the moment. Not only do you get it back, but he presents it in a plastic folder complete with 2 ziplock bags - total bonus!
We still want to go to Cartagena so rather than sail there, we are going to take a public bus (5 hour trip) then stay in a hostel. From talking to other cruisers here, this seems to be the norm except most people splash out on a hotel rather than slum it in a hostel…hint hint Dylan.
There is of course the option to by pass Santa Marta altogether and just go to Cartagena to clear in. Again second hand information but opinions on Club Nautico and the surrounding anchorage seem to be quite scathing with talk of a run down marina, a 'cess pool' anchorage and it being unsafe to leave your boat at anchor if it blows over 15 knots as very poor holding.
In summary, yes it is quite pricey for a 15 day stay but the process is slick and from what we have seen from the country so far, totally worth it!
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