Get Stuffed!

We thought we could manage with the steadily increasing drip of the stuffing box. 

Until we were emptying the bilge multiple times a day and the drip had become a trickle and was threatening to become something else sooner rather than later.

We were literally sinking at anchor. 

Our aim was to hold out until we next hauled out. We were a bit wary of anything that requires work on holes in the yacht while water desperately tries to invite itself onboard.  

Once we realised that it was A) too expensive to haul out just to do a packing replacement and B) it would not last the next 3 months until we planned to haul, we decided to bite the bullet and replace the packing while in the water.

We made sure we did it on a week day and in close proximity to the local haul out in Prickly Bay (Grenada). Just in case!

All a bit daunting as i had never replaced packing let alone in the water!

Tools used: 

Grease 

Rags

Packing (over 1 ft for a 1 inch shaft)

Cable ties

Screwdriver

Pool Noodle (or something to hold the rags in place)

2 x Large pipe wrenches

Packing removal tool

Stanley Knife

Duct tape 

What we did:

First, we needed to block the stern gland to prevent water from coming in while we were working

Step 1:Tear a rag into strips and coated them liberally with grease.

Step 2: Dive down and wrap the grease coated rags around the propshaft and jam them into the gap between the hull and the shaft. I did 3 separate strips and only wrapped one all the way around the shaft. The other two were used to stuff the gap above the shaft. The rags were pushed in with a screwdriver. Check that the water is no longer coming in. This can be done by loosening the stuffing box housing.

Step 3: I then cut an end off a "pool noodle" and placed it around the shaft. Securing it in place with 2 cable ties. This would hopefully keep the greased rags in place for the duration of the work. It was probably unnecessary in hindsight as the rags were in there good and proper, however I am a "belt and braces" type of guy. I also wrapped some duct tape around it too. Overkill maybe.

Step 4: You should have an idea as to the correct size of packing that your boat needs. If not buy a few other sizes. (It is cheap enough). Our Tartan 37 with a 1 inch prop shaft takes a 1/4 inch packing. This i found out from reading various forums. But some people had used 3/16 inch so i bought 2 feet of it just in case. While you have a bit of the shaft exposed between the coupling on the gear box and the stuffing box, wrap the packing around the shaft more and then using a sharp Stanley knife (Boxcutter, craft knife) cut the packing. You should get 3 strips just the right size.

Step 5: Open up the the stuffing box using large monkey wrenches or spanners (if you have the right sizes). Do it carefully to test for any water dripping out. It is not a catastrophe if you do have some water leaking as you are not trying to place the packing in the area with the water flow.

Step 6: Remove the old packing. I had a packing removal tool that looked like a cork screw. You could probably use a cork screw or a piece of wire with a hooked end.

Step 7: This was probably the hardest part. Trying to clean out all the old packing from the housing. The 3 main pieces came out but there was all sorts of bits stuck in there. If i had to do it over I would try have a spray can of compressed air and a thin long nozzle to blow into the housing to clear it of left over material. I used the packing removal tool and removed most of it.

Step 8: I inserted the first piece of packing and scratched a line on the bronze housing where the join between the two ends was. I then tightened up the nut and this forced the packing to the end of the nut in an even manner. (i.e. if i had tried to do it with a screwdriver i would have ended up pushing in one side then the other etc.). I reopened the stuffing box and placed the next piece of packing in and ensured that this was 120 degrees or so from where the first packing split was. Another mark on the housing and I tightened it up to press it in. To do the final one I reopened the housing, added the last piece of packing and ensured that the join was mid way between the other two marks on the nut and then tighten it up.

Step 9: A big one is to only HAND TIGHTEN the stuffing box. Tighten it up as much as possible to make sure it is as water tight as possible.

Step 10: Remove the greased rags one at a time. I had my partner keeping an eye on the the coupling as i removed each rag. After the second rag was removed, there was a drip happening every two seconds. I HAND TIGHTENED the nut a little more until it stopped dripping and went back in the water to remove the final rag.

Step 11: Test run the engine at anchor or in the marina by putting it astern (if on anchor) and tighten or slack off the nut until you get a bit of a drip when the shaft is turning. Better yet take your boat out and run the engine at your normal revs and adjust the stuffing box until you get the required drip. It should not (preferably) drip while at rest (read engine off). It may drip in neutral due to the vibration of the shaft in the stuffing box.

Warnings: If you over tighten the stuffing box, you introduce a lot of friction. The result will be more work for the engine and more heat applied to the packing and the stuffing box. 

If you over tighten the packing, it also has a tendency to harden and can then score your prop shaft with a groove. So change your packing rather than keep tightening!

Chainplates...

I suppose in hind sight, we were really lucky. Chainplates only really fail when under high load and that high load generally occurs with a large wind, sea and typically in the dead of night in the middle of the ocean (Sod's Law right?).

We could have been dismasted. THAT would have been a story and a half. Not the good kind either!

For the uninitiated, chainplates are the metal fastenings that link the hull to the rigging and come out of the deck. People probably know of them as “that thingy in the middle of the deck that I stubbed my toe on again”.

Needless to say, both Bill (Sally's father) and my father had banged on about bloody chainplates. “Check the chainplates” I had heard a number of times. Whats to check. They are in difficult to reach places surrounded in swathes of panelling requiring a degree in mechanical engineering and to be a part time contortionist at the Boswell Wilkie Flying Circus.

I had a full survey done by a very thorough surveyor. All the chainplates that were visible and accessible looked fine. No signs of rust, discolouration, anything! Using the rule of “the others look fine so I am sure they are too”, I did not give it a second thought.

Post experiencing the problem, a little research on the internet revealed that a number of other T37 owners have changed out their chainplates. Actually the very same plates that I severed. In all fairness, they were probably originals and at 33 years old had seen a fair amount of use over the years.

When we got back to Tyrell Bay, I hauled out the broken chainplate and sent it off to the Stainless Steel Fabricator guy. This charming little Frenchman who really does know his stuff.

There was me thinking that I could just get a new one made and sail away a few days later.

Oh no, not with my father scepticism. “If one of them is shot, they might all be...” says he. “Pull them all and check them”.

Sure, easy for you to say 2000 miles away in a first world country. Here I sit in a remote anchorage (which is not even near the Capital city) with a limited tool chest and he wants me to pull my boat apart to check all the plates.

As father is generally fairly cautious (and correct...but don’t tell him that), I did as instructed. The last thing you want is to be asleep one night in a real blow in the middle of an ocean crossing thinking to yourself...”If only I had checked those other chainplates when I had the chance, as I really don’t know what condition they are in...”

Sally and I spent the best part of a day deconstructing our little ship in order to slack off the rig, unscrew most of the cabinetry, unbolt all the plates and haul them out.

Not as hard a job as one might think though! I am sure it can be worse on some vessels.

We took all the plates to the Stainless Steel Frog to get checked out. He soaked them in phosphoric acid and cleaned them all up. Carefully with his magnifying glass inspected each plate and gave it the thumbs up or down. 

Both the main plates (the ones that hold the main stays that link the top of the mast to the deck) were fine. The 2 stays from the lower shroud (spreader) that lead forward of the mast were both fine too. We already knew that the starboard chainplate for the lower shroud that lead aft was kaput, we now got the verdict on the port one. It had a few hairline cracks in it. It too would need to be replaced. Happy to do it as I already had a boat with 6 holes in the deck. Might as well do the work now.

After enquiring about the boat and its age, construction etc the Frenchman responded in heavy froggie accent...“Old American stainless is sheet, European is much better. Modern stainless is much better than 30 years ago”

Another interesting thing is that when Tartans are rigged, they seem to just whack a hole in the deck and slide in a chainplate against a bulkhead. Little to no though about water penetration into the balsa core. Upon removing the plates, I could see the balsa core. I was expecting a ring of epoxy to protect it. The previous owner had been fastidious and kept good seals on all the chainplates and as such the wood was still in good condition. 

Instead of just “whacking them back in”, I mixed up some epoxy and coated all the wood core and the fibreglass sandwich with a thick application to act as a barrier to prevent moisture from wicking.

Now the old (good) chainplates are back in epoxy hardened holes with heaps of 5200 sealant.

Fingers crossed, we should not be leaking through the chainplates any time soon.

Orion on the seas!

A little video of us on Orion to give you all a feel for her, our living space and what we do.

Tartan 37...

Review of our Tartan 37: Orion

Specifications

L.O.A. ——————————37’ 3-1/2”

Beam ——————————- 11’ 9”

Draft (CB)   Board Up ———- 4’ 2”

                    Board Down —— 7’ 9”

Displacement ———————- 15,500 lbs

Ballast ——————————  7,500 lbs 

Datum Waterline —————— 28’ 6”

Sailing Waterline - Point of Immersion forward to aft point of immersion—33’ +

Sail Area —————————- 625 Sq. Ft.

Berths ——————————— 6

Power:  Westerbeke 50 engine

Year: 1979

Design: Sparkman & Stephens design

T37 Layout

We bought a T37C (or Centre Board). It is a great little ship and the one pleasantly surprising thing about her is the vast amounts of storage space on board. 

Whilst looking at a number of other vessels we were surprised at the lack thereof. We keep discovering new hidey-holes. 

Up forward is the traditional V berth which we use as the master cabin. There is a chain locker directly in front of that with easy access to the windlass, nav lights and chain bin.

Under the V berth is the usual storage space, however this vessel has a retrospective Holding Tank fitted on the port side. We use the space under the V berth for our winter clothes, spare sails (cruising chute, yankee) The previous owner also built in 2 collapsable water tanks for additional water carrying capacity.This is plumbed into the main fresh water system. Brilliant for additional water for long range cruising.

There is ample locker space for all of Sally's clothes. The starboard side has 3 draws and the small foot locker and a larger hanging locker. On the port side is a locker with shelves for my 1 pair of underpants and a spare shirt. 

Above the V Berth is a very large opening hatch with a fly / mosquito net flap. GREAT for the tropics as it lets air in and keeps mozzies out. This is why i would always buy a yacht from a cruiser as it is these little additions that require a lot of time, money and thought to do and Mike the previous owner has kindly done them all for us!

Moving into the saloon, working our way aft, there is another locker on the starboard side for more hanging stuff. We put our wet weather gear in there. Directly aft of the locker is a wood burning bronze and soapstone heater. Although I have never tried it out, it looks amazing and I almost want to go somewhere cold just to have an excuse to fire it up (excuse the pun) and fill the boat with the lovely smell of wood smoke.

Underneath the heater is the Jabsco Fresh Water pump. Which supplies the head and galley and the shower in the cockpit. Directly to port is the head. A practical space with a shower, basin and toilet. Good stowage space, however it will be interesting when we take her out to see what jumps out of the racks as there is always a lot of movement / motion the further forward you go. 

Interestingly the shower drains to a separate sump under the floor in the saloon and there is a automatic float switch that pumps it dry. A good idea as this means that soapy water does not drain into the bilge. 

One of the best features is the drop down saloon table. I always seem to trip over centre mounted saloon tables. We use it for a fraction of the time but it is constantly in the way when moving fore and aft. With the tartan drop down table, it gives the feeling of a lot more beam / space in the saloon and easy access to the bilge etc. The water tanks are arranged port and starboard under the saloon settees. They have twin access hatches for easy cleaning. An activity we have just undertaken and were surprised how easy it was to clean them out. 

Behind the settees (port and starboard) is additional stowage space for tools, stores etc. We still have loads of empty spaces (but we have not provisioned extensively yet)

Some Tartans have a pilot berth on the starboard side and I believe this one had one once upon a time but the previous owner wisely converted it to stowage space. We keep all our towels, linen etc in there.

On the port side in additional stowage space above the saloon settees with books, glasses, etc.

Another hatch above the saloon with a solar fan to provide a bit of breeze and another fly net to keep the biters out.

Most yachts have the galley on the port side. Tartans have it on starboard. The fridge is very large and deep especially when you consider its a 33 year old boat. Fridge works really well, however we don't run it 24x7 as we are power misers and just run it to keep it cool.

There is stowage space above the stove with 3 sliders hiding 2 shelves in each for groceries. Aft of the stove is a deep well for pots / pans etc. There are twin sinks. Very useful for a wash in salt and rinse in fresh operation that I like to use for dishes. Did I mention I am also a fresh water miser?

Behind the sink is a well built rack for dishes, bowls, cups, etc. Well positioned as a knock down should not dislodge these (in theory). 

Under the sink is the usual nest of plumbing, but also extends quite deep enabling a lot of cleaning products to be stored.

The chart table is on the port side and is very large by todays standards. I know that electronic charts are the way forward and call me old fashioned, but I still want a piece of paper to jot a lat and long, especially on a long trip.  There is a cubby hole to the left of the table where we keep key tools, torches, winch handles etc. Nice big space for odds and ends. Chart table opens and has ample space too.

Aft of the table is the aft berth. In true cruiser fashion this has become our garage. Full of bits and pieces. What you may ask...well, washboards, cockpit cushions, tupperware full of stuff etc.

Under the aft bert, is a stainless fuel tank. The chart table seat, contorts into an extra length to turn the berth into a double. great for guests. 

The engine is where you would expect to find it. Another reason why i was so taken with the Tartan 37 was the great engine access. You can tackle it from all sides. The companion way stairs come off to reveal the starter, the water pump. alternator etc. There is access from the port side inside the aft berth. There is a large deep locker in the cockpit that one can climb inside to work on the starboard side of the engine and the gear box etc.

Speaking of the starboard locker, it is huge. deep enough to store all the fenders standing up. It has all our sheets, rode, tool boxes etc. Very functional.

There is a large cavity under the cockpit between the stern gland / prop shaft and the well of the cockpit into which there are hanging baskets of spares (fan belts, filters, etc). Accessing them in a hurry is tricky, but they are not everyday items and the less clutter the better in my opinion.

Engine access is great. It is some of the best I have seen on many boats. I have seen a few forums where people argue that having to clear a locker is a pain. It might be a minor inconvenience, however I can get my whole 6ft 95kg frame into the engine space in order to work on it. I can also access the sheaves and steering cables from the binnacle. If need be I can also access the engine from the aft berth on the port side although I don't have quite the same freedom. As a design feature, Tartans have a fibreglass well under the engine into which any oil or water leaks are easily identified, also you will never lose another nut or bolt into the bilge either. Very impressed with engine access and design. Well thought out!

The aft cockpit locker is also deep and capable of additional storage. There is a built in tray to protect the steering lines and quadrant from what ever you pile on top of it. There is also easy access to apply and use the emergency tiller.

The propane bottles don't quite have a home. Had I more funds, I would move them onto the transom with stainless holding brackets (like those for fenders) and clad them in navy blue covers, but for now they are fine in the cockpit.
There is also a dinghy davit to hoist our 10HP on board.

One small bug is that the canvas weather cloths in the cockpit restrict 360 turning of the winch handle. However if i had to chose between a quick tack and good size wave leaping into the cockpit, it seems a small price to pay for a little more awkward winching. If I don't like it at a later date, I can always remove the weather cloths.

We also have a gas BBQ on the stern, fed by a skinny 5lb propane. Yet to use it, but looking forward to doing so.
Another nice to have on board is the hot water tank which can be heated via the inverter / shore mains or the engine. This feeds hot water to head, galley and the cockpit shower.
Ah, the cockpit shower. Great for rinsing snorkelling gear and yourself. Runs off the main Jabsco water pump.

Great little ship. Every day we are on her, the happier we are with her.

The clock of life is wound but once,


And no man has the power


To tell just when the hands will stop


At late or early hour.

To lose one's wealth is sad indeed,


To lose one's health is more,


To lose one's soul is such a loss


That no man can restore.

The present only is our own,


So Live, Love, toil with a will --


Place no faith in 'Tomorrow' --


For the clock may then be still.



Robert H. Smith
©

1932-1982