Seasickness is always at the forefront
of my mind when we are underway, so keen to keep it at bay but as we
hadn't planned to leave when we did, I hadn't taken any of the
medication I had obsessively stocked up on when back in the UK.
Needn't have worried as I felt absolutely fine for the duration of
the passage, able to read down below and even bake a cake when I
fancied. Perhaps it was the flat seas and winds on the beam (when we
had wind!) that owed to my wellbeing but I like to think that I have
succeeded in banishing the 3 day, feeling like death, phase from my
life forever. Dylan's Father did tell us that the Pacific Ocean was
exactly that, the 'passive' ocean...I tend to agree from what we have
seen so far.
The first couple of days saw us
blasting out of the gulf of Panama at 7 knots with the current and
wind behind us and very few sail changes. We used this as the
settling in phase, trying to establish a routine for life underway
and get enough sleep to not be totally useless. I'd say about 3 days
in we had the routine down and started relaxing into what we thought
would be a 7-10 day crossing. Hmmm Mother Nature had other plans but
Dylan covered that in his other blog post so I'll leave it there.
Suffice to say I shall never scoff at a 3 knot average again!
For those of you interested in what on
earth we did for 13 days at sea with no land to break up the journey,
here's a glimpse:
5 – 9am: I am asleep in the v berth
whilst Dylan is on watch. This usually meant huddled under a beach
towel lying in the cockpit with the egg timer on a 15 minute timer to
ensure a look out was undertaken 4 times an hour. We would check
whether there were any lights near us (other ships), our course and
the wind strength and direction, adjusting as necessary.
9am: I wake up and whilst making
breakfast (fruit and yoghurt), we both listen to the SSB net for any
boats we know that may be near us. Unfortunately on this trip it
included a good deal of moaning that boats were overtaking us with
their motor on for days whilst we bobbed about in a dead zone. Oh and
we also do our 3 hourly log entry in the logbook.
9 – 12pm: Reading, teaching myself to
play the guitar, chores (I made a sunbrella cover for the dinghy gas
tank and Dylan took all the varnish off the toe rail).
12pm: Noon reading. We would do the
usual log entry and then determine how many miles we had sailed in
the past 24 hours. We play the guessing game of “how many miles
have we done” before we tally.
1pm: Lunch. Due to the obscene amount
of cream cheese I seemed to have accumulated in the fridge, I think
we ate cream cheese and crackers each day for the full 13 days so it
wasn't exactly a time intensive task.
Afternoon: More reading, watching
movies, chores, baking, snoozing and snacking. I soon realised that I
had been living with a closet sugar monster for the past 4 years and
took drastic action by hiding many of our biscuits and sweets for
fear that we would have none left by the time we got to the
Galapagos! As we speak Dylan has found the jelly beans and thinking
he got away with it, sat devouring them in the cockpit. Ha he will
have to do better than that.
3pm: Log reading.
6pm: Log reading and perhaps a glass of
wine with dinner.
8pm: Dylan goes to bed and I stay on
watch.
11pm: Watch change.
2am: Watch change.
5am: Watch change.
Rinse and repeat...
When in the Caribbean and doing day
hops to islands, I would think of the first long passage we would
have to do and it would fill me with dread. Other yachties would
assure me that it got better but I was extremely dubious. As a
comparison though, the hops in the Caribbean would almost always mean
a 30+ mile slog to windward with significant swells and a hell of a
lot of roll. Not knowing any different I just imagined the Pacific
passages in those conditions but the duration multiplied by 30. How
wrong I was. I never thought I would say this and Dylan don't you
dare say “I told you so” but I'm actually finding these longer
passages...ENJOYABLE...*gasp*. Being at sea with nothing around you
for miles and relying totally on the boat and the provisions on board
is so...satisfying. The nature we have already seen on this trip is
breathtaking. We've had whales come to say hello, dolphins dance in
our bow waves, birds hovering over us, fish looking like comets in
the phosphorescent waves at night and even once becalmed, a turtle
came to kiss our hull before the current sent him on his way. These
experiences you just would never find anywhere else and we feel
incredibly lucky to be witnessing them.
Dylan has fond memories of his Mom
baking bread every other day and he has strongly hinted... OK more
urged...that I do the same. There is enough flour on board to supply
Hovis bread factory for a year so there really was no excuse. So how
many times did I bake a loaf? Once. Perhaps that was due to our need
to devour the cream cheese supply before it went off, who knows, but
don't worry, he certainly didn't miss out, I fed him pizzas, herby
bread (dutch oven style fat pancake - thanks Vicki), lemon drizzle cake and pancakes
instead. All home made of course and made so much easier by the
inventory I knocked up prior to departure, telling me where
everything was stored. We look forward to dropping anchor so we can
shed the ring of blubber that is developing around our waists and
under our chins.
Before anyone gets the wrong idea
though, I am still all about the destination not the journey on this
trip, and I certainly would not call myself a sailor. However rather
than a feeling of trepidation for the imminent 30 day passage to the
Marquesas, I am now rather looking forward to it!
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