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Saturday, 12 January 2013

The San Blas Islands


Well the sail over was fairly entertaining. We left Santa Marta with 30 knots up our tail pipe and saw that peak to 42. The spinnaker sat forlornly on our salon sole with not a chance in hell of being brought above deck. The Colombian coast has some pretty good wind / wave action and now we see why it is regarded by some as the 5th hairiest coastline in the world. We still marvel at our friends on Kadoona who beat into this (and all the rest) to get from Australia to the UK.

It took us less than 48 hours to reach the San Blas, with our first days run averaging 7.4 knots (177.6 miles in 24 hours) under headsail alone. We also set our new surfing record of 10.7 knots!

We had to slow Orion down as we approached the San Blas in the wee hours, flying one of Sally's skimpier pairs of undies as a sail was all we needed to maintain 4 knots.
Our first stop was Coco Bandero Cays. The only French yacht that was anchored there was kind enough to up anchor as we arrived and so we had the whole anchorage to ourselves (West Coco's).

It was fantastic to be anchored off a palm tree lined island in turquoise water all by ourselves. There was a Kuna couple living (care taking) the island. They seem to be the eternal gardeners tending to each island's grove of palms. Fallen fronds are burnt and no other nutrient sapping plants allowed to grow on the island (we are only talking a couple hundred square metres of island). Almost every anchorage will be frequented by dug out canoe's with women selling Molas (sometimes the whole family is in the canoe). Having promised Sally that she could buy a couple, we would invite the women on board and they present each mola individually for inspection. You place the ones that you like on your lap and hand the ones you don’t back to the seller. Once you go through the wares you then down select from the lap pile until you have your “favourite favourites”. Then the haggling comes in. First how much for each one...then you ask for a deal on 2 or 3 etc for “bulk buying”. It is an interesting process of pens and paper, as our Spanish is zilch and their English extends no further than “Hola”.

After a lazy week at anchor we set off to Eastern Coco Bandero's. Beautiful cluster of 4 islands, 2 of which were not inhabited. We did our first rubbish burn (as there are no facilities to dispose of garbage). We put out an announcement on the net (VHF on LOW power) and turned a boring activity of “taking out the trash” into a social occasion / meet and greet.
What is interesting is seeing what other people live on. Garbage can tell you a lot about people we noticed; as one yachtie quietly burnt his 5th 1litre tetra pack of local wine...

Backpacker boats full of semi translucent gecko looking creatures popped into the anchorage from time to time. Generally these are old large vessels of 50+ feet that look like they have seen better days. Some of the larger ones even cart motor bikes between Colombia and Panama (and vice verse). They were friendly enough and they never partied till 4am like some yachts experienced.

Christmas in the Coco's was a treat. We met a young couple from Vancouver on a 36 ft Hans Christen called Cypraea. They joined us and Dolphin of Leith and Waka Irie for a big christmas party that started at 8am and ended at 5pm. Sally did the event justice in her earlier blog post.

From the Coco's we set off to Nargana. A Kuna village near mainland Panama. People had spotted the resident croc (a 2 metre salty) nearby. Bedding the anchor involved just backing down on it as the prospect of jumping into the water with a croc and the proximity of the creative Kuna sanitation left much to be desired.

Nargana was our first taste of “civilisation” for almost 3 weeks. We even had meat (albeit pork) at a local restaurant. The river Diablo is where the Kuna gather all their fresh water from. A trail of canoe's head up the river daily paddling against the current, with large drums onboard. These are then filled and scooted back to the village. While there it is a bit of a social scene with women doing the laundry, men filling the water containers and then everyone has a wash (the water collection occurs up stream of laundry and washing incase you were wondering).
We had still to see the elusive croc!

Off to Canbombia with Cypraea. Dolphin and Waka Irie followed a few days later. There was a lot of noise on the net about spots to go to for New Years eve bashes so we knew which to avoid. We rang in the new year in Canbombia (an earlier blog post summarises our experience) and spent a day or two recovering.
The christmas winds we had heard about kept a very steady trade wind blowing and the sea seemed to constantly be in a heavy state. As such snorkelling was better on the inner reefs as the outer reefs were a bit boisterous. On the plus side, we had heaps of power as solar and wind kept us topped up.

Off for a 4 mile sail to Achudup (Near Saladup) where we stayed for a few nights before splitting with our friends as we wanted to head to the Holandes Cays. I had spent christmas there 25 years earlier (when I was 5) and wanted to go back to see if I could remember any of it. I didn't.
The swimming pool is a beautiful anchorage. There is one boat that is almost permanently moored there. We were running out of time so did not spend much time exploring the BBQ island, Bug Island, the Hottub etc on the Eastern Holandes. We upped anchor to Central Holandes in search of a recommended mola maker (one can never have enough mola's apparently). Miriadiadup had one other yacht in residence, but the anchorage was large enough to accommodate a bunch of yachts without crowding. Most anchorages are deep 50+ feet. Something to get used to I guess...

Without a doubt, we wish we had spent more time in the Holandes Cays. We like solitude, good snorkelling and fishing. This place has it all. The water is a lot clearer too.

We were just going to pop into the East Lemmon Cays for a night, en route to Chichime via Dog Island to see the sunken wreck. The Lemmon's were very pleasant and it was here that we met in our opinion the best mola maker in the San Blas (Venancio). After seeing a good couple hundred mola's, we now believed that we had a bit of an eye for quality.

We snorkelled the wreck at Dog Island (an old freighter sitting in 10 feet) and then beat our way to Chichime. The current running between the two islands of the anchorage was amazing. It was a good few knots. Not really ideal swimming conditions. Waka Irie joined us there and we had a few drinks that night to catch up before our early morning start towards Portobello the following morning.

The banks off of Punta San Blas were apparently good fishing grounds, so out came the rod. We experienced parts of 30 feet deep and tried to avoid spots were swells were actually breaking on the banks. The caught 4 fish. A large Barracuda, 2 mackerel and a tuna. We had a number of strikes too and one I lost as I reeled it in as we were making about 5 knots through the water.

We had planned on stopping in at Green Turtle Marina en route but the swell and seas made it a bit too exciting for us to risk our house so that we could pay to moor for a night or two. As it was still light, we continued onwards Isla Linton.

We had to anchor slightly in the channel and as such Sally and I spent most of the night rolling violently into each other like some sort of couples wrestling match gone wrong. Needless to say we hightailed it out of there the next morning and headed to Portobello.

Portobello is a great anchorage in a sleepy little town with a lot of history. There are a few tall ships in the bay at the moment. Beautiful to see these old schooners still in use.

We finally cleared in and it did not cost us a cent. Unlike other places where it costs up to $100 per person! Panama, you got to love it!

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