Fajardo

Quote from Dylan – Fajardo, the place where boats go to die. Now it could be because we went there in hurricane season but we found Fajardo soulless, not cruiser friendly and void of people. There are wrecks everywhere, as we motored into the anchorage of Isleta de Marina, a fishing boat was busy pumping out a sunken vessel similar to their own from a nearby reef. As you look around, there are high rise buildings everywhere blocking your views to the rest of the island. We had 4 loads of laundry to do as well as internet connection to find having not been online for about a week so we got in the dinghy and went over to the marina on the island we were anchored off. Greeted by an obese man with no teeth who claimed to be the bar manager I eyed up the 'dinghy dock' that was swarming with louse and made our conversation brief. We couldn't use the laundry unless we brought the boat into the marina, they didn't have internet and berthing was $1 /foot /day. Yes it may be cheap but I had been doing rather well keeping bugs at bay from our boat so despite the bargain I was not staying in that ropey place. Luckily Dylan agreed so we went back to the boat and vowed to dinghy half a mile to the mainland the next day.

Motoring in the direction of a bunch of boats, we found ourselves in Sunbay Marina which is the only place that lets boats at anchor not connected to their marina, tie their dinghies at their dock. Wanting to stretch our legs we went for a walk into the town which provided us with more views of high rise buildings, a couple of interstates and a dodgy liquor store. On the way back to the dinghy we made use of the open men's room and both went for showers. Had no towels so we came back to the boat dripping in our clothes – was worth it though! Dylan went to go and charm the ladies on reception and we got to use the laundry with the promise we would bring the boat in the marina the next day. So that night was spent sweating away in a windowless laundry room doing load after load of washing.

The next day was a new experience logged - the first time we had brought Orion into a marina. We were up early going over our plan and at 8am we called ahead for a line handler to be at the berth to help if needed. There was 15 knots of head wind to add to the challenge, I threw the lines whilst Dylan was on the helm. Easy peasy lemon squeezy, we slid into the berth and secured the lines like pros. Phew, that was one worry over, now to slip into the world of the American consumer....Walmart!!

Our Walmart receipt

Leaving Orion at the marina and with a long list of provisions to get, we rented a car from Thrifty's ($50 /day including insurance) and spent 3 ½ hours in Walmart Superstore much to Dylan's horror. Filling 2 trolleys we brought the goodies back to the boat and completely filled our cupboards with provisions and toiletries to last us a good few months. That day ended with a shower that must have lasted 30 mins, I've said it before and I'll say it again – never again am I going to take a fresh water shower for granted. I came out with hair feeling like hair rather than straw off a scarecrow. What luxury!

North America has not been kind to the average Puerto Rican physique. As we drove down the interstates there was chain after chain of fast food places – Wendy's, Taco Bell, Burger King, KFC. Almost at every light the same logos greeted us.

Marina day 2 was spent doing chores and making use of the unlimited fresh water. By dusk Orion was sparkling inside and out, had fresh oil in the engine and my hair was a new colour (why dye hair in the cockpit when you can take full advantage of someone else's bathroom!).

Two days was all we allowed ourselves in the marina so we left just before night fall and anchored back in the same place off Isleta de Marina. Before we left Fajardo I wanted to go and check out Old San Juan so we hired a car again and persuaded (or rather charmed) the ladies in Sunbay marina to let us leave the car there over night. Old San Juan is beautiful, full of history and brightly coloured Spanish architecture. We parked the car in a multi storey and paid a visit to Starbucks, our first one since Seattle in December. I ordered my favourite Chai Latte and Dylan a mocha frappuccino. Going back into the 95F heat we walked to San Cristobal Castle and drank in the local history opting to pay a little extra and take a 20 min walk to the next historic sight, El Morro. El Morro is a very pretty fort on the top of a hill covered in grass. Here the locals were flying their kites, looking out to the ocean and a colourful cemetery on the cliff edge. Spending all morning looking round old forts, we wandered through the narrow streets checking out the old fashioned houses and bayonet balconies overlooking plazas lined with weeping willows and elderly just sat about watching you watching them. After stopping for a picture of the Government mansions we went for lunch at Cafe Del Punto. What a place! As you walk in you are greeted with a long narrow corridor lined with craft shops and at the very back is the cafe. We chose a sampler which came with traditional Puerto Rican food such as beef turnover, stuffed plantain with crab and chicken and falafel. It all tasted amazing but was so starchy, we both felt extremely bloated afterwards. From lunch, Dylan nipped into Yuto where he bought some Puerto Rican hand rolled cigars (yuck) which he likes to smoke on special occasions. On to the Paseo de la Princesa which is a tree lined walkway leading you down to the sea and the Raices fountain. By this time it was 3pm and having walked all day we were tired, full and ready to head back. Definitely the highlight of our Puerto Rican adventure so far!

Government buildings

San Cristobal

El Morro grounds

Pretty streets in Old San Juan

Looking over to El Morro