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Monday 4 June 2012

Mopeds and flamingos

Anegada is a low lying island surrounded by reef similar to Barbuda with the highest point being only 28 ft above sea level. Only 11 miles long, sight seeing is easily done within a day and we chose to do it on a moped.

It is difficult to dispose of garbage in the BVIs and as such we had accumulated 3 bags worth of stinking rubbish. We took these bags ashore in the hope that we could get rid of them...we could but had to pay $3 /bag for the pleasure which Dylan refused to do. So it was with the 3 garbage bags and a rucksack that I straddled a moped and clung onto Dylan with my one free hand as he started up the engine. We got off to a wiggly start and Dylan informs me that he has never ridden a moped before! As we motor away (very slowly as I dig my nails into Dylan every time he goes over 20 kph!) we very quickly realise that the roads here are not all tarmac...but the majority sandy tracks. Interesting...

I am armed with a tourist leaflet of the BVIs that has a small 4 finger sized map of Anegada. I try to juggle that with the 3 bags of garbage and still hold on to Dylan as we sway about like a drunk after a day of drinking. As we hit the sand, Dylan wobbles, the moped veers near a gorse bush, we grind to a halt and I get thrown off. After only being on the moped for less than 5 mins and already seeing my life flash before my eyes, I took a bit of persuading to get back on the moped let me tell you! Helmets back on we set off in search of Flamingo Pond – home to 100 local flamingos. Falling off a second time I have a mild hissy fit and question Dylan's ability to drive cursing the fact we were cheap skates and didn't opt for the jeep rental instead. Sure I appreciate that driving on sand has the same feeling as aquaplaning in a car...yet I can't really sympathise with him when my feet cant touch the ground and the only way of getting off is if the moped is seriously tilted to the left or right. I was relying totally on his non existent experience in driving a 2 wheeled vehicle. I have driven a moped before in Thailand when on holiday with the girls, lets just say after accidentally driving myself into a group of monks, getting shown into their private quarters to take the embedded gravel out of my knee whilst the monks retrieve my moped from the bushes – I wasn't going to be driving one anytime soon, especially with my beloved as a passenger!! I figure Dylan just needs practice and get back on again, clinging on for dear life, staring at the speedometer. We saw 2 flamingos and not a lot else as we were concentrating so much on the sand piles.

With only 11 sq miles to explore, it wasn't long until we reached our second stop, Bones Bight beach. By now Dylan had figured out how to turn corners but I still wasn't all that confident on his u-turn capabilities so I bailed whilst he drove the moped round with his feet swinging out either side ready to level out the moped if needed. Bear in mind I still held on to 3 carrier bags of stinking rubbish and a rucksack on my back – o thank god we barely came across another person the whole day, we looked a right pair.

Bones Bight beach is a gorgeous deserted white beach. We get out our snorkels and go and explore the coastline. A few fishes but not that big on sealife, definitely focus on the beach impressiveness and not the underwater scene. We did however see our first small sea snake! We went for a long beach walk, no other person in sight, dried off and got back on the moped (well I didn't really have much choice did I).

Hitting a particularly sandy spot in the road I fall off for the third time (yes parents, we were wearing helmets) and this time manage to embed a load of thorns in my feet. Another mild tantrum, swearing and flinging of rubbish and we are on our way again. Yes I must be a glutton for punishment. Dylan putting on a brave face finding this whole thing hilarious as we fishtail our way up a sandy track hoping like hell we don't meet any oncoming traffic. We realise that this visitor's map is rubbish and totally not accurate when we end up at the South East corner of the island rather than the North East. A kind local with a kitchen paper wrapped around her head (no idea) pointed us in the right direction.

We weaved past goats and cows in the middle of the road and arrived at our destination – Loblolly Beach. And guess what, they had a bin free of charge! After carrying around 3 stinking bags of rubbish for most of the day, I was very keen to get rid. This beach was pegged as one of the best in the world so we had high expectations. Dylan, never to give anything a 10 /10 in the Caribbean as there is always better alternatives in the Pacific, declared that it was disappointing but I beg to differ. Sure it was busier than other beaches we had been to but the beach stretched on for ever and the coastline had great snorkelling. Reef fish we have seen before but all twice the size. We also spotted a medium sized sting ray chilling out on the bottom. Wanting to dry off before we got on the moped, we went for a drink at the bar and were greeted by two pet goats taking a snooze under the tables. Cute!

Next stop – The Settlement. How much easier it is to be a passenger on a moped when you can hold on with both hands rather than occupying one holding bin bags! The Settlement is the main town on the island. We were expecting a central hub and got a road that just looked slightly more populated than the rest. A lone Indian lady sat on a green plastic chair greeted us into the town as I continued to dig my nails into Dylan if we went over 30 kph (yep I had upped my tolerance by 10 kph)! On our way out we stopped for a herd of sheep going home. Much more interested in our strange faces they all stopped where they were and checked us out.

Heading back to the rental place I allowed Dylan to drive a little faster on a straight road yet we were still getting honked at by locals and overtaken. Whether that was to say hello or tell us to move out of the way – who knows!

Here is a video I made whilst on the moped:


Dylan now has another nickname - Dick Dastardly from Wacky Races.


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